1880s women's fashion was defined by the rigidly structured bustle and an abundance of decoration. Boys passed through roughly three stages of dress, beginning with the frocks of toddlerhood, discussed above. After that age, boys wore trousers under their frocks; girls did as well but since their hemlines descended to ankle-length, it was harder to discern their trousers, or drawers as they would later be called (P. Cunnington 161; Buck 109). Given by Miss E. Marian Adeney. The fashion landscape had changed radically and rapidly; the way that women dressed in 1800 stood in stark contrast to the dress of a generation earlier. 11). Lightweight muslin gowns did not provide much protection from the cold, and shawls became a necessary accessory; not only did they provide warmth, they added to the classical draped effect. In the early years, long trains were common on fashionable gowns, for both day and evening wear, but these began to gradually disappear around 1807 (Byrde 24; Foster 21, 29). Aesthetic dress was also notable for its earth-toned colors, such as mossy green and ochre yellow (Shrimpton 22). Rogers Fund, 1932. History of Fashion 1840 - 1900, July 11, 2013. Fashionable menswear now consisted of un-ornamented wool in dark colors; gone were the floral silk embroideries and fussy lace accessories of the eighteenth century (Laver 149; Byrde 89-91). Group, Balmoral, Portraits of the Royal Children, September 1885. Wool twill with wool braid trim. This consisted of a bodice front attached to the skirt which was partially cut in a flap; once the wearer pulled on the sleeves and fastened the inner bodice lining, the skirt flap was pulled up where it was fastened with ties around the waist and the bodice front was pinned into place (Johnston 166; C.W. For example, the famous London store, Liberty, opened its dress department in 1884 and carried looser styles inspired by the Aesthetes and dress reformers (V&A). Either were appropriate in the daytime, but for evening wear, cream breeches paired with a black or blue dress coat, white waistcoat, and stockings were considered correct (Byrde 93; Johnston 14). Fashionable women consciously sought to reproduce the supposed fashions of Ancient Greece or Rome. Davidson wrote: Brummell epitomized a new standard of elegance and ideal of perfection in male dress without being a flamboyant dresser. The origin of this garment was the chemise dress of the 1780s, worn by influential women such as Marie Antoinette and Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (Ashelford 174-175). Everything from the hairstyles to the draping shawls evoked antiquity; the preeminence of white as a dress color was due, in part, to the incorrect assumption drawn from classical statuary that classical women only wore white. Princess Irene and Princess Alix of Hesse, March 1880. Instead, minimal fullness emerged from below the hips, with decoration concentrated low on the back (Fukai 214; Tortora 390). The introduction of the princess line narrowed girls dresses, as it did their mothers. 1880s Fashion in Photographs, 1880s. 9). 1800-1805. Fall-front gown, ca. Perhaps womenswear in the 1880s was most marked by the weightiness of decoration (Fig. Kent, OH: Kent State University Museum, 1995.017.0017. Textiles of the 1800s were often enriched with embroidery, one of the few elements permitted to disrupt the classical line. The main form was the cravat, a large square of fine muslin or silk, folded cornerwise and carefully tied in a variety of arrangements (Fig. Fig. 12 - William Powell Frith (British, 1819-1909). 1882 Oscar Wilde embarks on a tour of America. Victorian Era: Second Bustle Period and Aesthetic Dress (1883-1890), n.d. Burnham, Helen. 1) (Cumming 87; Laver 202). Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fig. 3) (Callahan). A common form was the tippet, a small cape which was often made to match the dress. In her 2001 book Pantaloons and Power, fashion historian Gayle Fischer states that this was the decade when: "Men gave up their claims to ornamentation, colors, and lace, and adopted a more uniform style of dress, thereby making fashion and all its accoutrements the sole province of . Dress, 1805. 1883 Brooklyn Bridge, the first wire suspension bridge, is built, 1885 First motorcar built; first Chicago skyscraper; Thomas Edison invents the first movie in New Jersey, 1886 Last Impressionist group exhibition, 1888 George Eastmans first amateur cameras, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/, Ins Gches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset, 1906 John White Alexander, Study in Black and Green, The first decade of the 17th century saw a continu, James Tissots 1876 painting Summer featur, The 1947 film Forever Amber, though ostensibly set, Beetle-wing (or elytra) embroidery rose to fame in, Sophie Gimbels black cocktail dress is studded, This intricate 1855 American day dress proves to b, Daniel Delis Hill in The History of World Costume, The duchy of Burgundy, enriched by the wealth of i, In honor of Valentines day, were highlightin, The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017), Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998), 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010), We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe, Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving, Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland, Iowa State University Special Collections, Connecticut Historical Society Museum and Library, https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/how-arts-and-crafts-influenced-fashion, 1880 Mary Cassatt, Lydia Crocheting in the Garden at Marly, 1880s Amde Franois, Blue Silk Day Dress, 1881 douard Manet, Spring (Jeanne Demarsy), 1881 James Abbott McNeill Whistler, Harmony in Pink and Gray: Portrait of Lady Meux, 1883 Pierre Auguste Renoir, City Dance (Danse la ville), 1883 Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Dance at Bougival, 1884 John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Virginie Gautreau), 1884-1886 Mme Grapanche, Red Silk Dinner Dress, 1885 Henry Lerolle, The Organ Rehearsal, 1887-1889 Jean-Philippe Worth, 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Store to the Palace of Consumption, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Last updated Aug 24, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Oct 14, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated May 16, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Nov 2, 2020 | Published on Mar 26, 2020. Beau Brummell, 1805. Source: Los Angeles Public Library, Fig. Stipple and engraving; (9 1/4 x 5 3/4 in). He elevated the style with painstaking perfection. 270. Glasscock, Jessica. While white was undoubtedly the most modish color for dresses, it was difficult and costly to maintain. Kempf (American). 2 - Designer unknown (English). Fashion Plate: "Full dress and Morning Riding dress" for "Le Beau Monde", December 1801. Oil on canvas; 244 x 179 cm. Cut velvet silk and chenille fringe. Les Demoiselles de Province, 1885. The 1880s saw a fad for Highland dress, an imitation of the Scottish kilt, among the higher classes (Shrimpton 48). 1 - John Russell (British, 1745-1806). The Edwardian age was known for the excesses, elegance, and strict social rules modeled by the wealthy. A famous anecdote recalls a visitor finding Brummell and his valet next to a pile of crumpled cravats. The Empress Josphine, 1805. Greenaway was an Aesthetic Movement illustrator who created many childrens book illustrations featuring young girls in loose, Empire-waist dresses and protective straw bonnets (Fig. The Immigrants by Charles Blauvelt c. 1850. Oil on canvas. But in the untamed American wilderness, things were a bit different. These new hairstyles were referred to asla Titus or Brutus, underscoring their classical inspirations (Davidson 57; Laver 153). Brummell wore an immaculate suit of pantaloons, blue dress coat, starched cravat, and polished hessian boots (Figs. It was usually paired with loose knee-breeches and gaiters (Tortora 401; Laver 202, 204). The 1880s featured two distinct silhouettes in womens fashions. They also often wore a top hat or a bowler hat. Fig. Women began to wear their hair more neatly in the 1880s. Albumen print; 14.1 x 9.8 cm. Given by the Royal Scottish Academy 1910. The influence of neoclassicism could also be seen in fashionable menswear. De Young, Justine. 7 - Designer unknown (Probably British). Indeed, this shift also furthered separated court costume from general wear. 9 - Designer unknown (French). This style was sometimes referred to as the Dolly Varden look, named after the character of the same name in Dickens popular novel Barnaby Rudge, set in the eighteenth century, underscoring the looks revivalism influences (Fukai 218; Laver 193). Source: Florida Memory, Fig. Bequest of Maxim Karolik. 8 - James Tissot (French, 1836-1906). Not Just a Pretty Picture: Fashion as News. In. The Aesthetic Movement underscored this concern, chiefly through the introduction of Kate Greenaway dresses. Copenhagen, Denmark: State Museum of Art, KMS3635. Contact us! The slim, vertical line of the garments themselves reflected the neoclassical preference for clean geometry expressed in other visual and applied arts (Byrde 23-24; Tortora 313-314; C.W. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, T.165&A-1915. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, E.1015-1959. Vincent, Susan J., and Denise Amy Baxter, eds. Women in front of their house, Barton, Vermont. White cotton was the usual material as it allowed for easy laundering. Purchased with the aid of the Art Fund (Scottish Fund) 1992. The blazer, a single-breasted lounge jacket, often made in brightly colored stripes (Fig. Source for information on Clothing of Native American Cultures: Fashion, Costume, and Culture . Given by Miss M. D. Nicholson. 8 - Sir Henry Raeburn (Scottish, 1756-1823). The decade of 1900-1910 was part of what was known in the Western world as the Edwardian age, in reference to the reign of British monarch Edward VII (1901-1910). Source: The National Museum, Fig. Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). The restrained riding costumes worn by English gentlemen on their country estates had been increasingly the preferred style in Britain and on the Continent (Fig. Bequeathed by Gen. Sir Montagu McMurdo 1895. Edited by Valerie Steele, 103-105. Day dress, 1886. For shooting and country activities, a Norfolk jacket, marked by its pleated back and belted waist, was the most common ensemble. Edwardian fashion from the late 1800s continued to influence the early 1900s. The dress of Aesthetes influenced the Rational Dress Society, founded in 1881, which argued against the constrictive and cumbersome mainstream fashion for women (Laver 200). Victorian Era: First Bustle and Natural Form (1870-1883), n.d. History of Fashion and Dress. The prevailing fashion for pantaloons tucked into boots was, at least in part, inspired by the military; the ultra-fashionable hessian boots, defined by their cleft tops trimmed with tassels (Fig. 5 - Jean-Bernard Duvivier (Belgian, 1762-1837). Pinterest. Bath, U.K.: Fashion Museum Bath. Purchased with the assistance of a special grant from the Government of Victoria, 1974. Fashion legends abound that tell of women leaving off their stays entirely, and appearing with very little underwear at all; while it seems that some women really did abandon their stays, the practice was not widespread or mainstream. 4). Portrait of Madame Tallien, 1806. 4 - Designer unknown. Bodices could feature long basques, and many bodices were designed with central panels that often imitated a jacket and vest, drawing inspiration from menswear fashions (Fig. Of course, this new style of dress did force a change in underwear. 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 1890-1899, 19th century, designer profile, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, garment analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, LGBTQ+, 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 19th century, B, C, term definition. 1880s Sportswear, 1880s. How Arts and Crafts Influenced Fashion. Victoria & Albert Museum. 4). Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 64.692. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Throughout the first half of the nineteenth century, Americans were among the most optimistic people on earth. Like the general trend in menswear, boys clothing grew quite narrow in the 1880s (Shrimpton 47). Pastel on paper, laid down on canvas; 60.6 x 45.1 cm. 1 - Edgard Farasyn (Belgian, 1858-1938). Work, play, fashion, economic class, religious faith, even politicsall these aspects of American life and more are woven into clothing. 1850-1877: Lifestyles, Social Trends, and Fashion: Overview The American Spirit at Midcentury. Fashion historian Philippe Sguy wrote that early 1800s dress "would have been at home in the days of Hadrian" (le Bourhis 73). The Journal Des Dames et Des Modes: Fashioning Women in the Arts, c. 18001815., Siegfried, Susan. Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope, Ansell, John Gregory, and John Trusler. Oil on canvas; 61.5 x 50 cm. Krick, Jessa. New York: International Center of Photography, 390.1990. Young girls even wore the tall bonnets and hats then in vogue (Rose 85; Shrimpton 54). Source: Pinterest. 5), were borrowed from the German Hessian soldiers, and a different, more practical style was named for British military hero, the Duke of Wellington (Davidson 232). 2 - Artist unknown (British). 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